I start down the hiking trail in Priest Point Park (short-listed in “America’s 100 Most Alliterative Parks” ) about an hour before dusk. The skies are leaden and pregnant with precipitation - there is no wind, not a puff, not a whisper. I enter the park via the Ellis Cove detour entrance off East Bay Drive and, as a recently transplanted eastsider, and when I say eastsider I mean Spokane and the astringent transition zone between sagebrush basalt scablands and crunchy dry ponderosa pine forests, I am yet again amazed by the lush green crazy-quilted vegetative sensory overload of this remnant rainforest park created in 1905 and yet so close to pavement, lawns, gas stations, micro pubs, convenience stores, and stick homes. It is enveloping. It is the jungle. Moss sprites and fern faeries hold court alongside steep verdant hillsides and serpentine trails where staired and stepped switchbacks traverse the yo-yoing elevation along the jade green cove and then the bay. The smells are rank and whiff of a continual exposition of layers of decomposing life, smells that are sometimes sweet and sometimes nauseating and sometimes both at once. It is a richness of senses that overwhelms me and fascinates me and most importantly engages me. This place is a treasure.
But this evening, the quiet seems ominous as I hike in, not a bird sound, no rustling in the underbrush or canopy, even the mallard ducks plopped along downed timber in the cove are mute. There is a certain bird of these western temperate rainforests that sings a high pitched staccato song, well, song might be overvaluing their cry; it is more a high pitched machine gun rat-a-tat-tat-tat staccato. I have no idea what this bird is, but I’ve tried to pass it off to a certain nine year old daughter of a former friend of mine as a “Cascade Monkey” (simia rainierus) the only temperate rainforest monkey native to North America above the Rio Grande. I’ve even provided fundamental and realistic details of the Cascade Monkeys food preferences of baby salmon, blackberries and fir cones and the incredible attachment of the mommy and daddy monkeys to their baby Cascade Monkeys, not turning them out of the nest (they nest only in old growth red cedar) until they are nearly nine! but she did not buy it. Not one bit.
As I strode further into PPP, I wanted to hear the bird’s obnoxiously unique monkey cry, but even it was silent.
After about 10 minutes, I decided there was a mountain lion in the vicinity, probably very close, likely stalking me. The birds knew it and chose to zip it up. The squirrels were dug in tight. I was meat on the hike. I didn’t know exactly if there were mountain lions around this park, I mean it looked like a cool place to be a top chain predator and all. I had heard of a cougar sighting in West Olympia this summer but just wrote it off to some 40ish bikini clad divorcee sunbathing in her front yard where the young roofers popping up new suburban sprawl across the street could check her out.
Having been a long time hiker in REAL cougar country in Eastern Washington and North Idaho, I knew the score. Look back a lot as you hike because they will silently stalk from behind and if they see you looking at them it creeps them out. They may still slink along quietly under cover of brush setting up their neck snapping lunge-attack but it’s not the same for them if they know you know they are coming. In India, the locals have long worn masks of human faces facing out from the backs of their heads, so tigers won’t stalk them.
So I’m swiveling back every 10 yards or so feeling silly but also appreciating how this fear of being eaten has instantly turned a more or less routine hiking incursion into something else, into something electric, like switching from a black and white TV on antenna reception to a 52 inch flat screen plasma high def monitor sucking up digital cable pixels. Everything matters. Every sound, although there were none, every sense, my location, escape routes, the pepper spray in my right hand and the full metal water bottle in my left. I’m six three so I’m guessing I’m a bit skewed to the right of the bell curve of lethal cougar attack victims by height. Well, at least that’s what I’m telling myself. Along with “does pepper spray even phase these tawny rockets of tooth, fang and clawed obliteration?” Or is it like seasoning?
I approach the cove and notice these orange sandbags in the water and I’m not exactly sure what they are for except it appears they are to catch landslides from silting up the cove. I wonder if could leap past them without breaking my legs. It’s a drop. I visualize my screaming jump with a muscular mountain lion in the air behind me - all stretched and clawed with a knowing look in his eyes - he knows I’ll never out jump him. But don’t cats hate water?
Here is what the Department of Fish and Wildlife recommends if you see a cougar:
Stop, pick up small children immediately, and don’t run. Rapid movements might trigger an attack. At close range their instincts is to chase.
No kids with me, unfortunately, as I can outrun most kids until they get about 8 or 9. As to rapid movements, I’m pretty slow generally, except when panicked.
Face the cougar. Talk to it firmly while slowly backing away. Leave the animal an escape route.
Yes, because the cougar desperately needs an escape route. From me. OK!
Try to appear larger than the cougar. Get above it (such as step up onto a rock or stump). If wearing a jacket, hold it open to increase your apparent size. If you are in a group, stand shoulder-to-shoulder to appear intimidating.
Just remember, when you get up on the rock or stump don’t do it suddenly because that triggers their sudden movement attack reflex. I wonder if unzipping my slate gray Columbia sweatshirt and thrusting my overweight belly out to look larger is going to scare Mr. Mountain Lion or just make him decide to step off his low fat diet just this one time because it’s Friday and well, it’s been a long week and he worked out extra hard the other day, chasing down that deer, so yeah, this one time it would be cool.
Do not take your eyes off the cougar. Do not crouch down or try to hide.
Yeah, that’s his gig.
Never approach the cougar, especially if it’s near a kill or with kittens, and never offer it with food.
“Kittens” seems so innocent and pettable as opposed to the more biologically congruent “death-cubs of furred destruction.”
If the cougar does not flee, be more assertive. If it shows signs of aggression (crouches with ears back, teeth bared, hissing, tail twitching, and hind feet pumping in preparation to jump) shout, wave your arms and throw anything you have available (water bottle, book, backpack). Convince the cougar you are not prey but a potential danger.
So when I see the hind feet pumping and I start screaming I’ll try to be assertive about it. “It makes me feel VERY SCARED when you pump your hind feet like you’re going to tear out my jugular in THREE SECONDS FLAT.”
If the cougar attacks fight back. Be aggressive and stay on your feet. Cougars have been driven away by people who have fought back using sticks, rocks, clothing, shovels, pepper spray - even bare hands.
This is the part of the guidebook that the Wildlife Biologist who is authoring it starts chuckling to himself, then gestures his co-workers over to point at the computer screen and snort and giggle at what he just wrote.
I hike down the steep switch backing stairs along the north side of Ellis Cove when suddenly, I hear it - I hear the incredible welcoming QUACK of a duck. It breaks the silence. It relieves the tense doom-filled silence. QUACK. If a duck is quacking is a cougar at hand? I have no idea to tell you the truth but it seems like something just changed. Like maybe there isn’t a cougar about.
As I traverse the rolling trail, cutting across steep slopes, I’m much more at ease but still occasionally giving the look behind. After a short ways I pass the first other hikers I’ve seen and grunt “hi” and then I’m relieved. A skinny hipster and his skinnier girlfriend. Cougar-bait. If there is a cougar. But they are heading into the silent forest of covert feline predation, not me. I’m out in the squawking duckworld.
I come upon other hikers and joggers (deer-like in their wide eyed panting grace) as I complete my loop. About 45 minutes. Three fairly good climbs. It’s a workout. I’m hungry now. I’m going home. Priest Point Park is an emerald fairyland and I’ll be back as soon as I can. It’s probably very safe, too.
“We don’t have too much of an issue with predatory or predatory-like creatures there” said a City of Olympia Parks employee when a few days later I call to ask if there were cougars or other predatory animals in Priest Point Park. Well, it seemed like a good place to be a predatory or predatory-like creature and somehow, I'm saddened by their absence. And grateful too.
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